The
process used when fastening to concrete has basically remained
unchanged over the years. Although there are epoxy/chemical type anchors
in use today, the majority of concrete anchors still rely on the same
principles that were developed many years ago.
Fastening
to concrete is unique compared to other fastening applications such as
fastening two pieces of metal together by using a screw or a bolt and
nut. Concrete anchors are much more difficult to install and use. The
concept of fastening something to a solid base material is completely
different than for almost any other type of fastening application.
Concrete is the most widely used base material in the world for the last
2000 years and probably will remain so for the next 2000 years due to
its simplicity, strength, versatility and the abundance of the
ingredients used to make it.
The process with which we fasten to concrete is simple:
1. Make a hole in the concrete
2. Put something in the hole to take up the space created
3. Expand the material in the hole via a nail, screw or setting tool
We
are making a hole with a certain amount of volume and then inserting
more material into the hole. This increased volume of material pushes
against the interior wall of the hole and creates friction. This
friction is how most mechanical concrete anchors obtain their holding
values. All mechanical type concrete anchors work on the same basic
principle- Drill a specific sized hole, insert the anchor and expand the
anchor larger than the hole in order to make it difficult for the
anchor to be pulled out of the hole. Concrete anchors are designed to
be inserted into a hole in concrete and not come out.
Wedge Anchors
Wedge anchors
are two-piece concrete anchors that are assembled into one unit. The
steel rod (made from carbon steel or stainless steel) is threaded on one
end and the opposite end starts out slightly smaller in diameter and
tapers out to the full diameter of the rod. A clip is then permanently
attached to this end of the rod. The wedge anchor is inserted into a
hole in concrete until the threads are below the surface of the
concrete. The nut and washer are placed on the threads and tightened
until finger tight. Using a wrench, the nut is then turned, which pulls
the anchor up to wedge the clip between the stud and the wall of the
concrete. When drilling a hole in concrete for a wedge anchor, the hole
size is equal to the anchor diameter size.
Sleeve Anchors
The sleeve anchor
is made of four different parts. The stud (which is threaded and
flared or cone shaped at one end), the expander sleeve and the nut and
washer. The expander sleeve is assembled over the stud with the nut and
washer threaded on the opposite side of the cone shaped end. The
sleeve anchor is inserted into a hole drilled in the base material
(either concrete, brick or block). The nut is turned, which pulls the
stud up through the expander sleeve, expanding it up against the inside
wall of the base material. The hole size to be drilled into the
concrete for a sleeve anchor is equal to the diameter of the anchor
being used.
Concrete Screws
Concrete screws
are different than all the rest of the anchors because they do not use
expansion to derive their holding values. Concrete screws are a special
threaded screw, with hardened notched threads and high-low threads.
The notches and the high low threads help to eliminate concrete shavings
from the hole as the screw taps threads into the base material. The
hole size for concrete screws is smaller than the diameter of the screw.
A 3/16” screw requires a 5/32” hole and a 1/4” screw requires a 3/16”
hole. The concrete screw is inserted into the hole and turned either by
hand or by a rotation drill until the concrete screw is tight against
the fixture being fastened.
Drop-In Anchor
Drop-in anchors
are a female anchor designed to be placed in concrete and then to have a
threaded rod or bolt inserted. The drop-in anchor is made-up of two
parts: the expansion shield (made from zinc plated carbon or stainless
steel) and a case hardened expander plug that is cone-shaped and made
from zinc plated carbon or stainless steel. One end of the shield is
tapered, with four cut slots that run a portion of its length. The
surface of this end may be smooth or knurled while the other end will be
smooth. The expander plug is placed at the end of the anchor that has
the four slots, and the other end is threaded. The anchor is set by
placing the anchor into a hole in concrete and by setting the expander
plug using a setting tool. Each diameter of drop-in anchor has a
specific setting tool. This setting tool is a steel rod with one end
being necked down. The necked down portion of the setting tool is
inserted into the drop-in anchor and pounded with a hammer until the lip
of the anchor meets the lip of the setting tool. This action pushes
the expander plug down into the drop-in anchor expanding the anchor
where the four cuts are. As with all female type anchors, the size of
the designated size of the anchor refers to the bolt size that goes into
the anchor; the hole size is larger than the anchor size.
Machine Screw Anchor
Machine screw anchors
are a female type anchor into which a threaded item is placed. Machine
screw anchors are made up of two parts, the internally threaded cone
and the sleeve. The sleeve is placed over the threaded cone and
inserted into a hole drilled in to the base material of concrete, brick
or block, threaded cone first. The machine screw anchor is set by the
sleeve being pushed over the expander sleeve wedging the sleeve between
the expander sleeve and the inside wall of the concrete. The anchor is
properly set when the lip of the setting tool meets the lip of the
anchor. Each diameter machine screw anchor has a specific setting tool
that is designated by the diameter of anchor being used. The machine
screw anchor size is designated by the inside diameter of the bolt to be
used with the anchor, the hole size required is larger than the anchor
size being used.
Strike Anchor
Strike anchors
are for use in solid concrete and are considered an impact expansion
type of anchor. The strike anchor is made up of four parts: the body
that is made from carbon steel with an interior hole the entire length
of the anchor, a drive pin that is hardened, and a nut and washer plated
in a yellow zinc. The body of the anchor is threaded on one end with
the other end having four slots cut a portion of the length - the
surface of this part of the body has ribs around the circumference. The
length of the drive pin that is hardened must equal the length of the
anchor and is placed inside the interior hole of the anchor body. The
anchor is set by placing anchor into a predrilled hole in concrete with
the nut and washer attached. The anchor must be tapped lightly until
the nut and washer are against the base material or fixture being
fastened down. The hardened pin is then driven into the anchor until
the head of the pin meets the end of the anchor body, which will provide
for the proper setting. As the pin is pushed into the anchor, the
anchor is expanded. The hole that is needed to be drilled for the
strike anchor is the same diameter as the diameter of the anchor being
used.
Hammer Drive Anchor
Hammer drive anchors
are made from a Zamac material that is strong and malleable. Hammer
drive anchors are a light duty concrete anchor, made up of two parts the
body and the zinc plated steel pin. The body of the hammer drive
anchor is split from the bottom up for most of its length, with a
mushroom head. The anchor body is hollowed out that runs through the
head thickness and down into the shank for the entire length. The steel
pin is what expands the anchor; it is made of high carbon steel, with a
small head on one end and with the other end pointed. The anchor is
set by hammering the steel pin into the anchor body. As the nail pushes
through the anchor body, the split part expands to push against the
interior wall of the hole in the base material. The hole diameter to be
drilled for the hammer drive anchor is equal to the diameter of the
anchor being used.
Split Drive Anchor
Split drive anchors
are made from carbon steel that is heat-treated through, hardened and
zinc plated. Split drive anchors are one piece with either a flat
countersunk head or a round head. At the base of the anchor, opposite
sides of the head the shank is sheared into two pre-expanded parts.
These two halves are compressed when the anchor is driven into a
predrilled hole in concrete. These two halves continually try to get
back to their original shape, pushing against the inside wall of the
hole. The split drive anchor requires a hole size that is equal to the
diameter of the anchor being used.
Lag Shield
Lag shields
are made up of two parts that are assembled into one piece. The lag
shield is made from a Zamac material, which is a zinc alloy that is
rust-resistant. The inside of the lag shield has internal threads
designed to accept lag screw threads and its threads are tapered and run
the length of the anchor. The outside body of the anchor has ribs that
run the majority of the length of the anchor. The lag shield is set by
inserting a lag screw into the anchor. Turning the lag screw into the
tapered threads expands the two halves of the anchor and pushes against
the base material. Lag shield anchors are designated by the diameter of
the bolt that goes into the anchor. It is important that the hole size
to be drilled is larger than the designated anchor size.
For
many years, creating a nice consistent diameter hole in concrete was
painstakingly difficult. This was until the invention of the electric
hammer drill. Before the electric hammer drill holes where made by
using what was called a star drill. The star drill was a steel bar
with one end shaped like a large X (the drilling end) the other end a
stud (the striking end). The drilling end was place on to the concrete,
the striking end was hit with a heavy hammer, and after each blow with
the hammer the operator would turn the stud slightly, over time a hole
could be drilled into the concrete. Before the star drill, other
methods where used to create holes in concrete, using chisels and
punches.
Please remember with all fastening jobs to keep safety in mind. Always follow safety instructions on all tools, and refer to manufacturer's installation instructions when available and always remember to wear safety goggles!
Article written by: Michael Pistorino, Concrete Fastener Specialist